Strawberry Plants .org

Single Season June-Bearing Plants?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 05:05:00 +0000

This is a question submitted to Strawberry Plants .org by a reader. The information provided in response to the question may benefit others with the same or similar inquiries. Therefore, it has been added to the archive page of submitted questions. See the Strawberry FAQ for more questions, or use the search box at the top right of this page to search this site for information.

Q: Single Season June-Bearing Plants?

On August 31, 2010, John asked:

I have heard of single season june bearing plants. I am from California. I was told there is no need to cover strawberry plants and that they are cheap enough to plow under the old crop and replant winter squash. We are taking over the family farm and looking for alternatives in farming, but we never did strawberrys.

Answer to: Single Season June-Bearing Plants?

John,
You are correct: most large-scale commercial strawberry farms in California treat strawberry plants as annuals and replant every year. Having never commercially farmed strawberries, I’d recommend you check out this prior to taking the plunge: Strawberry Plants Library 0006. These posts also might help you: short-day june-bearing strawberry plants, growing strawberry plants commercially, plasticulture strawberries, strawberry plants per acre, the matted row system. I hope that helps!

[ single season june bearing plants ]

Strawberry Plants .org exists to help spread the passion for growing and eating strawberries. However, manpower is limited. If you have a question related to strawberries, feel free to submit it or post it as a comment. Please be patient, though, as it may take some time before your question is addressed.

How Fast Do Strawberries Mold?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:05:37 +0000

Q: How Fast Do Strawberries Mold?

On August 24, 2010, Corye asked:

Which strawberry will mold the fastest, the one the porch or the one on the kitchen counter?

Answer to: How Fast Do Strawberries Mold?

Corye,
If you are talking about an actual strawberry, one left on the porch will likely be eaten by a feathered friend or other critters long before it has a chance to mold. Mold/fungi spores are virtually ubiquitous, so both will mold rapidly if not eaten by animals. The one on the kitchen counter will likely begin becoming moldy in a day or two if it isn’t refrigerated. For more related information, see the “Care After Picking” section on the Strawberry Picking page or the Strawberry Buying Guide.

[ how fast do strawberries mold ]

How to Hull Strawberries

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 18 Jan 2012 05:05:41 +0000

Most people would agree that strawberries are delicious. In fact, you can find strawberry recipes that are perfect for virtually any occasion. The beautiful and tempting red fruits have a long and storied history (see the Strawberry Plant page for more details), but there are a few minor annoyances when it comes to getting the berries from the field into your tummy. First, one has to do some strawberry picking, and, then, the strawberry hulling must commence. Both can be tedious. This post, however, is going to deal primarily with getting those little green caps off the picked berries. Numerous methods will be mentioned, including one that you’ve probably never considered!

So, this post is all about how to hull strawberries. Let the fun begin…

How to Hull Strawberries: Intro

Before diving into the methods, a brief introduction seems warranted. What exactly are we talking about here? Well, as one might imagine, there are myriads of names for the small, vegetative green things that are affixed atop strawberries. This green “hull” on each strawberry is scientifically called a calyx, but they are more commonly called hulls, tops, caps, hats, or leaves. While they are totally edible, they are not very palatable. So, it is a good idea to hull strawberries prior to consumption. The following are methods of de-capping your strawberries:

Hull Strawberries with a Straw

One of the “cleanest” ways to hull a strawberry is using a straw. Simply line the straw straight up at the tip of the strawberry and push it through the center of the berry until the cap “pops” off. You have to use a straw that has some strength as straws that are too flimsy will bend prior to accomplishing the job. Oftentimes, the tip of a strawberry may not be ripe or may be hard and sour. Using a straw to hull also removes the tip of the strawberry and can do away with less-than-desirable tips as well. However, some strawberry flesh is lost this way. But, if you line the calyx up correctly, less flesh at the top of the strawberry is lost compared to the methods mentioned subsequently. See the picture to the right and also at the top of the page for the means and results of this method.

Hull Strawberries with Your Fingers

Strawberries can also be hulled with one’s fingers. If you have long finger nails, they can be used to simply dig out or pinch out the hull. But, this is often messy, and can be unhealthy if the host of microbiological organisms hiding beneath your nails are transmitted onto the strawberry. And, if just the leaves of the calyx are removed using the fingertips, the coarse and knobby residual at the insertion will likely produce an unpleasant tactile sensation on sensitive tongues.

Hull Strawberries with Your Teeth

Or, the hull can be bitten off and “spitooied” into the trash or elsewhere. I don’t recommend this method either. You might not mind employing this method for your own harvest, but each step is unnecessarily messy. And, surely, most people for whom you may prepare or serve strawberries will appreciate the use of a more civilized method.

Hull Strawberries with a Knife

Most people simply use a paring knife or a kitchen knife to do the tedious work of removing the unwanted strawberry greens. The green tops block sunlight from assisting in the ripening of the flesh immediately under them, so using a knife allows the extra flexibility of removing any unripe areas (or bad spots) on each berry. Be careful, though, as using sharp kitchen implements can cause significant injury. It is easier than you think to slice your finger near to the bone while cutting the tops off of strawberries.

Hull Strawberries with a Strawberry Huller

If you are willing to spend a small amount of money to get a specialized tool, the 21st century has seen gadgetry advance to a level ne’er before witnessed. The host of varied-yet-functional strawberry hullers available today would cause an 18th century farmer or cook to have catatonic response. But, being erudite yourself, why not simply check out your available options by looking at these strawberry hullers. I’d personally recommend this one.

How to Hull Strawberries: Conclusion

Whether you pick your own strawberries or buy strawberries from a store, you are most likely going to need to hull them prior to using them. So, pick the method above that works best for you, hull a strawberry, and get busy cooking with the world-famous strawberry. And, don’t forget, if you need a recipe or two for utilizing your strawberry haul, be sure to browse our categorized recipe section to find one that is sure to hit the spot.

Growing Strawberries in Tropical Climates?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:05:01 +0000

Q: Growing Strawberries in Tropical Climates?

On August 18, 2010, Richard asked:

I am interested in Strawberry varieties which are most suitable for growing in tropical climates…particuarly the Philippines. So far I have found out the following are perhaps suitable: Red Gauntlet, Tioga, Cambridge, Turft.

However, I struggle to find much more about these, especially where to get the seeds from. Can you help?

Thanks,
Richard

Answer to: Growing Strawberries in Tropical Climates?

Richard,
Just about all strawberry varieties do better in temperate climates rather than tropical ones, unless they are grown at altitudes where it is cooler. Though the plants will likely grow with appropriate soil, water, and attention, you may want to read about the most common reasons why Strawberry Plants Don’t Produce Strawberries. Additionally, most modern Fragaria x ananassa garden strawberry varieties won’t grow true from seed as discussed on the Strawberry Seeds page. To find strawberry seeds, you can visit the directory of Strawberry Seeds for Sale. To find strawberry plant varieties, you can visit the directory of suppliers who offer Strawberry Plants for Sale. To shop by strawberry variety instead of by supplier, visit the Buy Strawberry Plants page. For the specific varieties you mentioned, you can go directly to the sellers who offer them by clicking these links, respectively: Cambridge Favourite, Cambridge Prizewinner, Cambridge Vigour, Red Gauntlet, Tioga. If you do decide to order from overseas companies and have them sent to you, you might benefit from this information: Shipping Strawberry Plants.

[ growing strawberries in tropical climates ]

Native Japanese Strawberry Varieties?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 04 Jan 2012 05:05:41 +0000

Q: Native Japanese Strawberry Varieties?

On August 11, 2010, Melvin Locke asked:

I would like to grow the Japanese strawberry varieties that are sweeter. How can I obtain bare root plants?

Answer to: Native Japanese Strawberry Varieties?

Melvin,
Thanks for visiting Strawberry Plants .org. Unfortunately, I do not know of a commercial supplier of bareroot native Japanese strawberry varieties. The most likely candidate for home growing, however, is the species Fragaria nipponica. Fragaria nipponica plants grow wild in a high elevation area (900-2800 m) near Mt. Fuji on Honshu, the southeast lowland areas of Hokkaido, and at the top of Mt. Miyanouradake on Yakushima Island. If you are adventurous and persistent, you can find bareroot plants by taking a trip to Japan and harvesting them yourself! But, I’m not sure you could sneak them back in through customs without permission. For more on what is involved with importing and exporting strawberry plants, this information might be helpful: Shipping Strawberry Plants.

[ native japanese strawberry varieties ]

Sonata Variety Strawberry Problems?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 28 Dec 2011 05:05:05 +0000

Q: Sonata Variety Strawberry Problems?

On August 11, 2010, Liz Miller asked:

I have an everbearing strawberry plant called Sonata. I planted the plant in May, in its own box, and gave it the care and attention it needed. But, all I seem to have gotten from this plant is runners and roots and no strawberries. Where am I going wrong? The plant is very healthy and has no diseases.

Answer to: Sonata Variety Strawberry Problems?

Liz,
Thanks for visiting Strawberry Plants .org! I think the main problem is that the strawberry cultivar ‘Sonata’ is not actually an everbearer. It is a midseason June-bearer; consequently, Sonata strawberries typically won’t produce if planted too late. June-bearers planted in May might not fruit at all in year one (and probably shouldn’t – see the Growing Strawberries page), but they most certainly will produce a lot of runners. Next year, however, you can expect a bountiful harvest as long as appropriate care is continued. For other common problems that can cause strawberry plants to lack strawberries, click here: Strawberry Plants Aren’t Producing Strawberries. And, to learn more about the various types and varieties of strawberries out there, see the Strawberry Varieties reference page. I hope that helps!

[ sonata variety strawberry problems ]

Strawberries in Pakistan?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 05:05:43 +0000

Q: Strawberries in Pakistan?

On August 11, 2010, Usman Ahmad asked:

Sir, I want to do the business of strawberry seeds in pakistan and introduce new varities in Pakistan. Please help me in running business of strawberry seeds, and suggest to me which one company is best in strawberry seeds.

Answer to: Strawberries in Pakistan?

Usman,
Thanks for visiting Strawberry Plants .org! Unfortunately, I don’t know too much about the strawberry seed business. I do, however, know of quite a few places where you can buy strawberry seeds online. Contacting a few of those companies might help get your initial seed stock. If you can talk to someone on the business side of things, they may even be able to give you a few pointers on how to go about the business of growing strawberries in Pakistan! Additionally, if you are interested in new varieties, you might find this post beneficial: How New Strawberry Varieties Are Developed. I hope that helps!

[ growing strawberries in pakistan ]

South Africa Strawberry Plants?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 14 Dec 2011 05:05:00 +0000

Q: South Africa Strawberry Plants?

On August 1, 2010, Carl Maree asked:

I need strawberry seeds to plant in South Africa. Can you please help?

Answer to: South Africa Strawberry Plants?

Carl,
Unfortunately, governments can be fairly strict when it comes to what enters and exits the country. I am not familiar with South Africa’s import/export policies regarding seeds. My best suggestion is to contact some of the strawberry seed suppliers on this page and see if any of them are willing to ship to you in South Africa. There are probably some regional suppliers of strawberry seeds within your country, but I am not aware of them currently. If you do discover them, let me know, and I will include them on the page linked above for future visitors. For an idea of what you will need to do to get strawberry plants or seeds shipped to you, view this: Shipping Strawberry Plants. I hope you are successful in your search for strawberry seeds in South Africa! And, if you find a good variety of South African strawberry plants, do let us know…

[ south africa strawberry plants ]

When to Transplant Hood Strawberries?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 07 Dec 2011 15:44:06 +0000

Q: When to Transplant Hood Strawberries?

On July 25, 2010, Nancy McAuliffe asked:

I’ve been reading the articles on your website. I have Hood strawberries. It is the last week of July, and I want to move them to other beds. It is best to move the whole plant, wait for the runners and plant them, and/or mow the bed at this time. Thanks for any help.

Answer to: When to Transplant Hood Strawberries?

Nancy,
Thanks for stopping by Strawberry Plants .org! My recommendation would be to wait another month or so and transplant them in late August. This page may be of assistance and may help you accomplish the task successfully: Transplanting Strawberries. Also, for a summary of year-round strawberry care that is broken down into monthly tasks, see the Monthly Growing Strawberries Guide. And, of course, for the most comprehensive and detailed information, be sure to visit the Growing Strawberries reference page.

[ when to transplant hood strawberries ]

San Andreas Strawberries?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 30 Nov 2011 05:05:15 +0000

Q: San Andreas Strawberries?

On November 10, 2011, Beatriz Briceno asked:

Hi, I would like to know if you guys have strawberry seeds available. I’m looking for San Andreas seeds. My dad is in Venezuela (South America) and he is growing strawberries now. This variety is very interesting and I’m looking foward to buy some seeds and try them. I’m living in South Carolina now. Thanks.

Answer to: San Andreas Strawberries?

Beatriz,
Unfortunately, you cannot obtain true-to-type strawberry seeds for the San Andreas strawberry variety. Since it is a hybrid like most prominent varieties, there is a low likelihood that seeds removed from a San Andreas strawberry would grow a plant even remotely similar to the parent plant. So, while no reputable seller will offer you strawberry seeds for this variety, you can purchase the plants. To see the available retailers of San Andreas strawberry plants, check out the entry on the Buy Strawberry Plants page (or click to go directly there: San Andreas).

[ san andreas strawberries ]

Overwintering Strawberries

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 23 Nov 2011 05:05:32 +0000

Strawberries are a delightful treat for thousands of home gardeners every year. The sweet rush of flavor that comes after sampling the distinctive aromatic profile makes for a truly rewarding experience early in the growing season. Strawberries are one of the first fruits to be harvested in virtually every temperate region of the world, and the life cycle of the strawberry plant is uniquely suited to bearing an early crop.

Usually before spring even arrives, the strawberry plants are coaxed from their long winter’s slumber by rising temperatures and burst forth from dormancy in a fevered rush of vegetative production on their journey to setting a nice harvest of berries for the gardener who lavished care on them. But, in most areas, winter poses a real threat to the life of the little forbs.

This post will help you successfully overwinter strawberries so that YOU can enjoy that first burst of juicy strawberry fruits each and every spring.

How to Overwinter Strawberry Plants in the Ground

Strawberries are relatively small plants, but they have a big productive capability. Due to their small size and easy adaptability, they make great ground plants and container plants. How to overwinter strawberries in containers will be discussed in the next section. Here the basics of overwintering strawberry plants in the ground will be briefly discussed. Extensive details on caring for strawberry plants can be found on the comprehensive Growing Strawberries reference page.

Overwintering strawberries in the ground is relatively simple. Strawberries are cold hardy, for the most part, and will survive mildly freezing temperatures without much problems. So, in areas with mild winters, little to no care may be required. However, in more northern (or southern for the Southern Hemisphere) regions, extra care will be required. That care takes the form of mulching.

Strawberry plants must have protection when the temperature drops into the low twenties. Once that temperature has been reached (usually in December), the plants should be in their dormant stage. At that point, it is time to overwinter them by mulching. For most regions, a mulch of straw or pine needles two or three inches thick is sufficient, but in colder regions more insulating mulch should be added. Again, more specifics about in-ground overwintering strawberries is available on the reference page mentioned above.

How to Overwinter Strawberries in Containers

Overwintering container strawberries takes a bit more effort than overwintering in the ground, but it is still easily accomplished. Added difficulty comes from the susceptibility of containers to heat transmission. Terracotta pots and strawberry planters (as well as plastic ones and Topsy Turvy planters) do not have the added protection of extensive amounts of insulating soil surrounding the potting soil and potted strawberry. Because of this, container strawberries are much more at risk of freezing to death outside and must be further sheltered from the elements during the biting cold of winter.

The easiest way to do this is to simply put the pot or container in an unheated garage near an internal wall. This will allow the dormant plant the protection it needs to survive. And, the prolonged darkness in the garage will actually help maintain dormancy. Covering with a towel or other opaque material can also help in that respect.

When the temperatures start to warm, simply take the containers back outside for the next growing season. The rising temperatures will revive the plants from dormancy, and production will commence again.

Watering Overwintered Strawberries

Just as with storing bare-root strawberry plants, your overwintered strawberries still have to have appropriate water. Totally dry soil means dead plants. Too much moisture can also be fatal. During the cold temperatures and while the plant is dormant, only minimal water is needed.

For outdoor, in-ground, and mulched overwintering strawberry plants, the natural precipitation should appropriately maintain sufficient soil moisture. For the container plants, however, water will have to be provided. The easiest way to provide appropriate water is to collect snow from outside and throw a handful or two on top of the soil. The slightly warmer temperatures in the garage should slowly melt the snow allowing a more natural seepage into the container soil. Doing this periodically (about once a month) should sufficiently moisten the soil and allow the plants to thrive again come spring.

Benefits of Overwintering Strawberries

There are numerous benefits to be had by overwintering strawberries. Here are some of them:

Overwintering Strawberry Plants Is Natural

Strawberry plants have a dormant phase for a reason. It increases their life span! Strawberry plants can be kept inside at warmer temperatures all year round, but this essentially causes the plants to never “sleep” and drastically reduces the overall life span of the plant.

Overwintering Strawberries Maximizes Production

Strawberry plants are perennial by nature. Letting them go dormant during the winter as nature would have it allows for maximal production from each plant. Since strawberry flowers should be pinched during year one for spring plantings, the second, third, fourth, and even sometimes fifth years are where production really comes on strong. Protecting dormant plants during the winter yields much more production following.

Overwinter Strawberries to Save Money

If you overwinter strawberry plants successfully, you don’t have to buy them again the following year. And, since they’ll live longer, you don’t have to replenish them as often either. Plus, since overwintered strawberry plants are more productive than plants that are never allowed to go dormant, you get to eat more of your own strawberries; and that means you’ll be saving money by not buying strawberries at the grocery store or farmers market.

It Is Fun to Overwinter Strawberry Plants

And, lastly, it is just plain fun to overwinter strawberries! They don’t suffer cold injury, and it brings a true green thumb at least a modicum of satisfaction knowing that his plants are kindly looked after. So, save yourself the work of replanting new plants each year and overwinter strawberries henceforth.

Overwintering Strawberries: Conclusion

Hopefully, you are now equipped whether you needed to know how to overwinter strawberries in containers or how to overwinter strawberry plants in the ground. Following the advice on this page and elsewhere on this site will help keep your plants productive year after year. So, have fun, save money, and maximize your harvest! And, if you have any strawberry-related questions, feel free to leave a comment. Good luck!

Are Container Strawberries Perennial?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:05:49 +0000

Q: Are Container Strawberries Perennial?

On July 31, 2010, Marilyn Sommer asked:

If a person grows strawberries in a container, will they grow back the next year or do you have to replant them every year. will you get many berries if using a container? Thinking about next year…
Thanks,
Marilyn

Answer to: Are Container Strawberries Perennial?

Marilyn,
As long as you take proper care of them, they will come back. You should not have to replant them. The number of berries you get depends on the amount of nutrients the strawberry plants get. If they are tightly packed in a container, they won’t do well. If they are in good soil with appropriate water, they will produce just about as well as any other planting modality.

[ are container strawberries perennial ]

Square Foot Gardening Strawberries?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 17:10:58 +0000

Q: Square Foot Gardening Strawberries?

On July 21, 2010, Agnes Ma asked:

Hi. I only started to learn growing strawberry beginning this spring. I was lucky to find your website since you have very good information on this subject.
In your September activity list, you mentioned to thin the plants to 4 per square foot. But I have read from many source to set the plants 12″ apart in rows spread 18″ apart.
My question is: can I grow 4 plants in one square foot. This spring, I planted 1 plant on each square foot. If I could plant 4 plants per square foot, it will be great. I will change the planting spacing when it becomes possible next time. Pls let me know the best spacing for strawberries.

Tks,
Agnes

Answer to: Square Foot Gardening Strawberries?

[Below is the rest of the dialog, with multiple questions and further answers provided]

Agnes,

Thanks for stopping by Strawberry Plants .org! When you purchase plants (or transplant them) and initially set them out, you definitely want to space them far enough apart in rows or another planting system (see the Growing Strawberries page for more on this). The goal, however, when using the matted row system is to allow the runner plants to fill in the rows to maximize the use of the growing space. But, the rows can become TOO “matted” and need to be tended, cut back, or renovated. For me, I hate having to destroy the plants, so I usually give away my extras. Leaving four strawberry plants per square foot is the maximum you should leave within a matted row. Any more and you will likely see a drop-off year-to-year in your yield as the strawberry plants become too thick and choke each other out. I hope that helps!

Agnes replied on 7/24/2010:

Hi, Mr. Strawberry:

tks for your reply. I forgot to mention that I planted the strawberry plants on my 2 feet tall raised bed. The size is 4′x 4′.

As I said in the earlier email that I planted 1 plant per square foot. The 4 x 4 bed looks full now even with 1 planted per sf. You really think I could plant 4 per sf? Will it be overcrowded?

I intend to start another 4′ x 4′ raised bed next January ( I live in bay area, California). Therefore I need your advice so I may plant the correct quantity per sf.

Tks

Reply from Mr. Strawberry on 7/25/2010:

Agnes,
Generally, when you start a new bed, 1 plant per planned square foot is all you need to purchase. In year two you will begin to reap significant harvest, and the runners from June-bearing plants will fill in the rest of the square footage by the second year. Strawberry plants don’t have enormous root systems like some plants do, and one square foot of appropriate soil can usually provide sustenance for four healthy strawberry plants without too much difficulty. In fact, my square foot garden easily supported 6 plants per square foot. Those plants provided me with big, healthy berries for multiple years. Thinking of it this way might help: plant 1 strawberry plant per square foot but leave 4 strawberry plants per square foot for subsequent years. I hope that helps!

Agnes replied on 7/27/2010:

Hi, Mr. Strawberry: I am a little bit slow in farming since I never grew anything in my life before. Strawberry plants are my very first one to try. My grandson (I am 66 years old now) begged me for it since he loves strawberry so much I started to think his last life must be a strawberry.

Let me see if I understood you correctly:

On year one, I shall plant with just 1 plant per sf. So when planting, I shall plant at one corner of the sf and leave all other corner & center space empty for future 4 runners to grow in. I shall cut off all runners in the first year doesn’t matter what type I planted. So at the end of first year I still only have 1 plant per sf.

In year 2, I shall allow 4 runners per sf to root in those reserved space. So at the end of 2nd year, I shall have 5 plants per sf. Do I read you correctly?

I appreciate your patience with me and my grandson thanks you also. He kept complaining too little strawberries this year.

Reply from Mr. Strawberry on 7/28/2010:

Agnes,
If you have a 4×4 foot garden plot, plant one strawberry plant in the center of each square foot during the very early spring. Pinch or cut all the strawberry flowers off of the plants in year one, but allow the strawberry runners to grow and root within the 4×4 feet of garden. At the end of the growing season, thin the runner plants IF they are too crowded. 4 to 6 plants per square foot (on average – most things don’t have to be exact in the world of gardening) is a good target. Over-winter the strawberry plants (see the Growing Strawberries page for help). The following spring, enjoy lots of sweet strawberries. You should reap a harvest from both the initial plants and the cloned plants they sent forth via runner.

Agnes replied on 7/29/2010:

Hi, Mr. Strawberry: You should call yourself “Dr. Strawberry”. Tks for all the valuable information. Now I clearly understood what you want. ( as far as runners are concerned.)

I have purchased 4 June Bearing plantings and 8 ever bearing type late this spring to occupy 12 sf. I have also planted 1 sage, 2 marigolds and 1 borage to occupy 4 leftover squares.

I have pinched off all runners as late as yesterday, but I have only pinched off all flowers for both bype for 6 weeks after planting them. Therefore as of today, I have no runners in my plot.
Now I know I have done wrong. I will start letting the runners to grow and root. I will also cutting all flowers on the june bearing type. But what do I do with the ever bearing type? (Bay area has a frost free weather.)

My another queston is I have used 4 sf for companion planting. I felt I wasted too much space. Did I use too much space? (I don’t even know if they are all annuals or not?) How will you re-design the space I have so I can plant more strawberries yet still having some protection against pests? Can I remove all these 4 companion plantings into a large, seperate pot near the strawberry plot? If the answer is yes, then how close this pot needs to be?

Again, both my grandson and I thank you for your help.

Agnes replied again on 8/3/2010:

Hi, Mr. Strawberry:
I have rooted 5 or 6 runners today. I also wanted to prune all my June-bearing strawberry plants. My question is do I have to wait till the runners are established into their new location before I can cut off all leaves to 1″ above the crowns? I also need to know how do I know the runners are really established into their locations so I can cut off from the mother plant.
tks for your time

Reply from Mr. Strawberry on 8/3/2010:

Agnes,
The best resource for square foot gardening is Mel Bartholomew’s All New Square Foot Gardening book. I read and implemented the first edition with great success, and I think the second edition will give you a great source for square foot gardening information. As for pruning your strawberry plants, yes, you need to wait until the plants are established. The easiest way to be sure that the runner plants are established is to wait until the stolon itself (the actual runner between the two plants) begins to brown and shrivel. At that point, you can be absolutely sure that the runner plant has established itself as an independent plant. Then, you can go ahead and sever the runner so that the plants are physically separated.

[ square foot gardening strawberries ]

German Strawberry Varieties?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 02 Nov 2011 04:05:19 +0000

Q: German Strawberry Varieties?

On July 11, 2010, Calvin Messing asked:

We were recently in Germany and picked and ate fresh strawberries. The berries were similar to what we grow here (Michigan – Sparkle variety) but not the same. The taste was a little different and the berries were very sweet, much sweeter than anything tasted in the US. They also seemed very soft and fragile – but very sweet. We were in southwestern Germany, near Ludwigshafen. Can you identify the probable variety? Can they be grown in Michigan? The berries looked a little like wild strawberries but were as big as or bigger than the Sparkle variety.

Answer to: German Strawberry Varieties?

Calvin,

Thanks for stopping by! The strawberries you found in Germany would likely grow here as well, although possibly not optimally. As many of the commercial varieties have been bred to increase the firmness, my guess is that the softer, sweet strawberries you had may have been everbearers or alpine strawberries. One of the commonly grown varieties is Baron Solemacher. Other German strawberries that may be possibilities are Macherauchs Dauerernte, Ada Herzberg, Alpine Riigen, St. Jean, Herzbergs Triumph, or Hummi Trisca.

Interestingly, a lot of the strawberry plants you will find in various countries are somewhat restricted by import/export policies. As such, it can be difficult getting European strawberry varieties into the U.S.A. (see the Shipping Strawberry Plants page for more details). But, good luck on your quest! If you want to see which strawberry varieties are available for online ordering in the U.S.A., you can visit the easy-to-navigate Buy Strawberry Plants directory (or jump straight to the specific variety you mentioned, Sparkle).

[ german strawberry varieties ]

What Do Young Strawberry Plants Look Like?

Mr. Strawberry — Wed, 26 Oct 2011 04:05:23 +0000

Q: What Do Young Strawberry Plants Look Like?

On July 5, 2010, j fox asked:

I have a few strawberry plants that have sent out some runners but the new plants don’t look much like the mothers? is this normal? should I remove the new plants? will they look more “normal” later?

Answer to: What Do Young Strawberry Plants Look Like?

j fox,

Thanks for stopping by Strawberry Plants .org! It is fairly common for young runner plants to look different from the mother plants at any given age. Often, the leaves will be a lighter green and will look more “jagged” than the older, more mature leaves on the mother plant. However, the runner plants are exactly the same as the mother plants genetically. Because of this, if you let them grow, they will carry the same genetic material and manifest all the same traits as the mother plants (and will eventually look almost identical). Remember, the mother plants usually have a good bit of growing done ahead of the clone plants. Because of this, the clone plants will look like the mother plants used to look when they were that age, and the mother plants will look like the clone plants are going to look when they get to be that age. So, to be more direct: yes, slight appearance variation is normal, and they will look more “normal” later on. As to whether or not you should transplant them, that depends. You can read the page on Transplanting Strawberries for help there!

[ what do young strawberry plants look like ]