Mulching Strawberry Plants with Straw for Winter

mulching strawberry plants with straw for winterMulching strawberry plants is a necessary step in the care of perennial strawberry care.  For gardeners using the matted row system to produce strawberries, part of the process of growing strawberries involves strawberry renovation and preparation for overwintering strawberry plants.  In milder temperate climates, minimal mulching is required as strawberries can withstand nominal freezing temperatures without much difficulty.  However, if temperatures drop below 10 degrees Fahrenheit, the crowns will often sustain damage and fail to bloom the following spring.

One of the simplest and most common methods of protecting the strawberry crowns is to use a thick layer of straw mulch to cover and protect the vulnerable crowns during the cold of winter.  It is relative easy to apply and serves several beneficial functions for your plants.

Benefits of Mulching Strawberry Plants with Straw for Winter

As already mentioned, the primary benefit obtained by straw mulching your strawberry bed is the prevention of cold injury.  However, simple temperature control is not the only benefit of using a straw mulch (or other mulch).  Mulching appropriately also prevents frost heaving of the crowns.  Additionally, the moisture content of the dormant plants is better maintained by preventing the winter winds from desiccating.  And, perhaps most importantly, mulching helps reduce the risk of your plants developing black root rot.  Black root rot is more common in plants that have developed susceptibility to it because of cold injury.

How to Mulch Strawberry Plants with Straw

In order to ensure that your plants are adequately protected, follow these steps:

1. Obtain clean straw. Oat, rye, or wheat straw are the best mulching straw types because it isn't heavy, is loose, and won't smother the plants.  Leaves will form a dense, smothering layer, and hay usually contains a host of weed and grass seeds that will germinate in warmer weather and will compete with or choke out your strawberries.  Using straw also reduces the chance of inoculating your bed with insect pests or other pathogens.  One bale of straw will typically cover about 30 feet of 4-foot-wide matted row.

2. Choose the appropriate time to apply the straw mulch.  The straw should not be applied until the strawberry plants have gone dormant for the winter.  Otherwise, the plants might be smothered.  Strawberry plants typically go dormant when the temperatures have dropped into the mid-20° F range for 3-4 consecutive days.  Plants can usually be identified as dormant by the older leaves, which will turn brown first.  The younger leaves will turn from a bright green to a dull green or gray color.  It is best not to wait until the ground is completely frozen.

3. Apply the straw mulch to the strawberry plants.  Once the plants are dormant, apply the mulch!  Break up the bale and then break the flakes completely.  Apply loose straw to the row of strawberry plants 3 to 6 inches deep.  It is also good to cover any exposed soil between rows or in the planting.

4. Remove the straw before springtime.  It is important to remove the straw mulch from the plants prior to them beginning to grow.  Gently rake most of the straw off the plants and into the rows as soon as the top 2-4 inches of soil have warmed to 4o degrees.  Leave a thin layer of straw over the plants.  The plants will grow up through this thin covering, and it will also serve to keep the strawberries clean and minimize contact with the dirt beneath.

Mulching Strawberry Plants with Straw for Winter: Conclusion

If cared for appropriately, strawberry plants will produce well year after year.  In fact, with effective transplanting, your strawberries can keep replenishing themselves for a lifetime!  So, mulch appropriately.  Straw is an excellent choice for mulching medium, although some people like to use newspaper.

So, plant to give a little tender loving care to you strawberry bed, and your strawberry plants will reward you with numerous harvests to come!  Good luck!

102 thoughts on “Mulching Strawberry Plants with Straw for Winter

  1. My kindergarten class grew our first strawberry garden last May. We are in Grayslake, Illinois. The plants are doing great. I will thin and cut off runners.
    How much straw is needed to cover the plants? Where do I purchase clean straw?

    Thanks so much and I am so happy I found your website!

    • Shirley,
      You are welcome! I’m glad the website helps folks. As mentioned above, 3 to 6 inches should suffice. You can purchase clean straw from most home and garden stores like Lowe’s or Home Depot or even the garden section at Wal-Mart. Good luck!

  2. Is the above information the same with a bed of strawberries that I planted last spring? Also, I have read that some people recommend mowing (or cutting) the leaves off the plants in the fall. Is this ever a good idea?
    Marie Ann

    • Barry Cunningham,
      You can substitute pine needles or comparable mulch for the straw, but you shouldn’t use wood chips or sawdust or leaves or anything that will pack tightly or retain water. Hope that helps! Good luck!

  3. I had planted strawberry plants last year and then I had covered them with straw for the winter, in the spring I uncovered them to find that mice had a hay day and ate nearly all of my plants. What can I do to keep this from happening again? Thanks….

  4. I am a first time strawberry planter. i planted quinault berries and have been pinching all blossoms this first year to encourage growth for a first full harvest in June 2014.. Now after reading this site I am worried that I planted the wrong kind of berry for June bearing and…for Kentucky.nso muchbinfonout there that i thought I had done my research.

    • Sandy bishop,
      You are probably doing just fine. Quinault is not a June-bearing variety, it is an everbearing one. But, there are some benefits to that. With everbearers, you can typically stop pinching the flowers off around the end of June. They will then go ahead and produce a fall harvest for you. The berries typically aren’t as big or as numerous as the June-bering varieties, but they are still tasty! For more, be sure to read the information on the Strawberry Varieties page. Good luck!

    • Brenda Wilson,
      You should remove the dead plant vegetative matter to reduce the chance of fungus or other pathogens setting up shop. Mowing is one way to accomplish it. Raking or hand removal can also work. Good luck!

  5. I live in Arizona, and a year ago in the spring planted 4 strawberry plants. I don’t know what variety, but they did great, and I was very surprised that without any overwintering on my part, they came back in the spring with a vengeance! Of course, we do have rather mild winters here! Now I have many strawberry plants, much to our delight, but my problem is that the runners are going crazy! I need to transplant them into safer and neater areas (they’re currently implementing a garden take-over plan!) but do I wait until they develop serious roots and try to transplant before winter sets in or wait until the spring?

  6. my garden center man said to cover/mulch my strawberries for winter protection with 3 to 4 inches of a commercial compost–but i always thought one shouldn’t cover the crown with any kind of earth based mulch at any time, am i wrong, or is he wrong please straighten this out, as winter is approaching quickly–by the way we don’t have access to any straw what so ever only hay with seeds to for us it’s either fleece or earth. please help ta

    • sky mont,
      If the commercial compost is sterile and doesn’t compact, you might be able to use it. However, you are correct in that you don’t want normal soil to cover the crowns, as that introduces great potential for pathogenic contamination of your plants. Also, if your mulching medium compacts, you could cause your crowns to rot if it also holds water. If you don’t have access to straw, you could try shredded newspaper. Good luck!

    • Shirley Wad,
      Yes, you actually can. The difficulty with Styrofoam, however, is getting to to stay put once you’ve put it where you want it. Good luck!

  7. After reading all the comments, I still do not fully understand the mulching process. In other words, I would like to know if you cover the entire plant with 3″ to 4″ of straw, or just the ground around the plants. Love your website. Thank you.

    • Jack Breeden,
      Yes, you cover the entire plant with the mulch. Doing so provides insulation for the crown and prevents cold injury. Thanks for visiting, and good luck!

  8. I live in Kelowna BC and was planning on building a hoop house over my raised garden bed. Should I include the strawberry plants in that cover or leave them to the elements (I covered them last year with leaves). Thanks for any assistance!

    • LJCoolJ,
      A hoop house will provide extra protection. If you leave them exposed, mulch them heavily, but with something other than leaves. Leaves will pack too tightly and are likely to harbor fungi that are pathogenic to strawberries. Good luck!

  9. I have “Allstar” strawberry plants, that never did produce much fruit but this was their first year, however they have continued to grow and are lush and green with numerous runners. I grown them in a black tote and need to find out when it comes time to winterize them when I cover them with straw should it cover the whole plant because the leaves stand much higher then 4 inches?

    • barbara,
      Yes, you will cover the whole plant. You shouldn’t mulch until the plants enter dormancy. So, once the weather cools and the plants go dormant, remove any dead leaves and then cover the entire plant with mulch. Good luck!

  10. I have read that pine needles can be substituted for straw as a winter mulch for strawberries? Is this true? Wouldn’t that lower the soil pH adversely? Straw costs money, but we’ve got tons of pine needles just laying around.


    • Soctt Fulton,
      Strawberries actually can do quite well with slightly acidic soil. So, feel free to use the cheaper pine needles! Good luck!

  11. I live outside of Ottawa, Ontario. In July I was given about a dozen crowns of an everbearing variety, which I planted in a 4×4 raised bed. The plants are thriving, and sending off a million runners, which are threatening to take over the neighbouring beds as well. We are having sporadic frost now, but won’t have consistently low temps for another month or so. Should I be cutting off those runners, or just looping them back into the bed? It’s pretty crowded in there! I have my bail of straw ready, but am not sure if I should trim the plants down before covering. They are about a foot high right now…Thanks!

    • Kate,
      Strawberries will continue to put out runners until virtually all the space in your berry patch is taken up. When they get like that, however, there isn’t enough garden “real estate” to support all the plants adequately. Additionally, the runners are unlikely to be able to root themselves well prior to colder temperatures arriving where you are. So, I would recommend snipping them off at this point. Good luck!

    • Mitchell,
      Just make sure the containers are insulated to prevent freezing/cold damage, and make sure the soil doesn’t dry out all the way. Good luck!

  12. My strawberry plant’s leaves are getting black and brown spots on them. Is there something I should be doing or cut off the leaves ? My strawberry plants are coming up in all of my flower beds , what should I do?

    • Glenda,
      You’ve possibly gotten a fungal infection. Leaf spot is the most likely culprit (search this site for “leaf spot”). If you have an excess of strawberry plants, you can pull them up and throw them away or transplant them. Good luck!

  13. You had previously said that strawberry plants can be mowed over to prevent pathogens from entering. Does this go for ever bearing plants also?

    • Lynn,
      Yes, you can do that to everbearing plants, but you’ll likely miss the second main harvest of berries if you do it. Typically the everbearing varieties aren’t renovated in the same way as the more common and popular June-bearers are. Good luck!

  14. I had planted about 25 June bearers this past spring and mulched them with wood chip mulch. They produced many blossoms which I pinched off for a better yield next June. I am concerned about how the runners grew on top of the mulch. Should I have done something about it while it was happening? I live in central Indiana. Thank you? Linda

    • Linda Sisolak,
      It is best for the adventitious node to contact soil instead of mulch. That allows the runner plant to develop a stable and secure root system to support the healthy functioning of the plant. If the runners rooted in the mulch, the roots might have gotten deep enough, but the plants will likely do more poorly than their neighbors. The video on this page might help you root them more effectively next time. Good luck!

  15. I live in Wisconsin and planted my first strawberries is year. I cut off all runners and all blossoms all year. The plants look very healthy. It is now December 22nd and I just woke up this morning and realized I didn’t cut back the plants and mulch them. I can’t believe I forgot! Should I cut them back now and mulch, like today? Or should I just go out and mulch them without cutting them back? Also, I saw another post that said the mice had eaten all the plants under the mulch. For some reason the mice are very bad this year and I’m afraid of that happening. The link in that post didn’t work so I don’t know how to prevent the mice attack.

    • Mindy Skinner,
      Your plants have probably gone dormant for the year where you live. I would recommend going out and gently raking any dead, wilted vegetative material out of the strawberry bed (that decreased the risk of harboring fungi or other pathogens). Then, I would still recommend mulching. Mice eating strawberries is not a common problem, but cold injury is. Mulching with clean straw is a good way to make sure all the great work you did this year is followed by a hearty harvest this coming year! Good luck!

    • ruth,
      You should not cover up the crowns of the strawberry plants with mulch. It encourages pathogens. Good luck!

  16. Hello – I live in North Central Florida. My growing season is different than the northern climates. My strawberry season is ended by June. This past year I planted 40 Sweet Charlie bare root plants in November and they are doing great. I have been pinching the berries this year giving the plant a chance to establish. Should I use straw mulch to protect my strawberry plants from the summer heat? If not, what do you suggest? Thank You.

    • Kim Ruby,
      Yes, straw mulch serves a dual purpose when it comes to growing strawberries. It insulates from freezing temperatures (for northern climes) in the winter, but it also insulates and allows for cooler air flow to keep the roots from overheating in the summer (for southern climes). So, yes, go ahead and mulch with clean straw this summer. Good luck!

  17. I covered my strawberry plants in the fall, maybe too soon, just took all the straw off and I have only 4 or 5 leaves left. The others are all brown and wilted with no leaves, should I just start over

    • Sharon G,
      I wouldn’t start over just yet. As long as the crowns didn’t suffer cold injury or become infected with a pathogen over the winter, they will likely perk back up shortly as they emerge from dormancy. Good luck!

  18. I live in zone 5, I just went out and uncovered my plants (hay, not straw), which were planted last fall, I have 3 different kinds. One of the kinds has green sprouts and the other 2 I see no signs of life, is this normal or did they die over the winter?

    • Cindy Merrill,
      That is not uncommon. Many varieties start at slightly different times. I’d give them a week or two and see if they don’t perk up. Good luck!

  19. Need some advice. I planted strawberries last spring and mulched them with hay for the winter (I live in Indiana). I must admit I removed the hay a bit late this spring (we have already had many days in the 80’s). I had about a 3 inch depth on the hay since it gets so cold here over the winter. When I removed the hay I have several very nice looking plants and blooms but many of the plants are gone. I found many ants, worms, etc. when I pulled up the hay (not surprised that other creatures like the protection either), but wondering if the other plants rotted, or the insects ate them. I honestly can’t find a trace of them.

    Has any one ran into this or have any thoughts. I am guessing i will add more plants this year to the patch, but sure don’t want to repeat the same mistake.

    Thanks for your help!

    • Lisa Trater,
      It is possible that some plants suffered cold injury despite the mulch, but I think it is more likely that they suffered from crown rot or a pathogenic infection or parasitic infestation. But, worry not! If you have healthy plants, I’d try directing their runners into the vacant areas and see if they’ll do well prior to buying new plants. Good luck!

  20. Hi, I planted some June berries when I go to cover them this fall can I just cover them with row covers instead of straw. I live in western PA. Thank you

    • Stephen,
      You want to wait until the plants are completely dormant, but you likely can cover them with row covers. As long as the soil doesn’t dry out and some air circulation still occurs under the cover, they will likely overwinter just fine. Good luck!

  21. We planted 600 honeoy plants in mid April and have been vigilant with weeding and snipping blossoms. We now have runners and plan to keep no more than 4 runners off each mother plant. How many berries (in quarts please!) can we expect next year with say a fair crop? Can we start mulching the plants for weed control over the runner stems before they detach, or must we wait until they are naturally detached? We plan on doing a 10-10-10 fertilizer in mid August and then covering for winter with straw after a few nights of mid twenties here in eastern WI. Are we on the right path?

  22. I live in zone 3 Canada. I want to plant strawberries in a raised bed that is 72″x30″. It has a triangle shape to it. The middle is 18″deep. The planter is 32″ tall, with the middle section being 14″ off the ground. Do you think my strawberries can survive, if I pack straw bails underneath it, and then cover the top with straw. The strawberries right now are in little strawberry containers that you can have 5 plants coming out the top and around the sides. They do not have a name on them. One pot says Strawberry Everbearing and the other one just says Strawberry Junebearer.

  23. Hi Mr. Strawberry,

    My strawberry plants are pot planted, I do have a no-heat greenhouse in my backyard, I’m living in zone 6b, do I need to cover my strawberry plants with straws if I keep them inside the greenhouse during Winter? I saw Home Depot has straw bales for sale but how do I know what kind of straw are they? Thanks!

    • Connie,
      In Zone 6b, your plants should be fine without any extra protection if you keep them in your greenhouse. If the forecast calls for unusually harsh/cold weather, you might need to provide them with a bit of extra protection, but they’ll most likely be fine without anything in 6b. Home Depot straw is supposed to be clean, so you can use it without worry about contamination if it is needed. Good luck!

  24. It is mid October in South Dakota and I am looking at what is my best option for my strawberry patch—it did not produce much this Summer, and I was unable to remove all the runners that came–should I do that now before winter? Should I mow it all down or should I remove the runners and just keep select plants and then mulch??? Please help

  25. I live in Western North Carolina where it is supposed to possibly drop down to 27 degrees over the weekend so I went ahead and covered my strawberries with straw for the winter although they still had blooms and a few berries on them was this ok?

    • Caroline,
      Yes, they should do fine. You could have waited until the temperatures dropped a bit lower, however. They typically don’t enter dormancy until the temperatures drop into the lower twenties for several days. Good luck!

  26. Hi,
    I live in Vermont, hardiness level of 3-4
    Should I try and protect my strawberry plants during the winter or will they die? Temps in winter get to -20 often. Last year we had hit -37 Fahrenheit one day.

    Should I try and protect them or do you think I will have to replant every year?

    Any tips are greatly appreciated!

    Thank you,

    • Miranda Hewson,
      If you mulch heavily (you may even want to use an insulating cover like Reemay), you can still keep them alive. It takes a bit more effort with temperatures that cold, however. You’ll also need one of the varieties better-suited for Vermont. Good luck!

  27. Wow..I NEED HELP….2 years ago I made a raised bed 4 my strawberries..i live in northeast ohio..problem was they started to produce the first year..then throughout the summer the plants were so tight the berries rottened early..then I thinned them out…within 1 month they were compacted again…I spent all summer thinning through plants and felt like I was destroying everything I had worked for..i even fertilized with miracid..they were supposed to produce all summer…but the plant turned diseased and to thick in the center of my raised bed…then these clover vines started choking them off…does straw help???

    • Dana Berry,
      Yes, using a mulch is an important component of growing strawberries. The runners can choke off productive strawberry plants and weeds suck the nutrients that the plants need. Additionally, crowding decreases air flow which allows pathogenic fungi and other problems to affect your plants. I’d recommend reviewing this material. Good luck!

  28. I started growing strawberries this year. I live in western Canada so winters are cold with lots of snow. I was wondering if I can cover my plants with upside down pots and then cover the pots with wood chips? Would this work for winter?

  29. I live in Eaton Colorado. 2 weeks ago I had my strawberries transplanted. We are having a beautiful fall – but now I have new leaves on the transplanted plants…. We are to get rain this week and cooler weather. When should I mulch with straw. I don’t want to suffocate them, but they like the new place that they seem to be growing?

    • Kathy,
      Don’t mulch just yet. The plants need to be dormant first. Once the temperature drops into the low twenties for several nights in a row and the leaves have wilted and look dead, gently rake out the dead foliage and cover with clean straw. This usually happens in mid- to late-December. Good luck!

  30. It is early November and I live in Maryland. I just covered my strawberry plants with straw before reading this. Is it too soon and are they going to smother now? What should I do? Thanks!

    • Micaela,
      Yes, it is probably a bit too soon. The plants need to be dormant first. Once the temperature drops into the low twenties for several nights in a row and the leaves have wilted and look dead, gently rake out the dead foliage and then cover with clean straw. This usually happens in mid- to late-December. You should carefully remove the straw from the covered plants until they go dormant. You probably won’t kill them or smother them to death by mulching early, but it is better to wait. Good luck!

  31. I’ve never covered my strawberries in central Ohio
    have sold over 30,000 plants and never lost a one to cold..its a good way to feed them though,and if you have the time and money to cover them with a layer of mulch do so by all means..[we feed our plants cow manure/well rotted grass/dead,well rotted leaves,once right before my strawberries begin to flower in early May[Earliglow’s]and then again in late Summer – early get just one crop with Earliglow Strawberries,but Earliglow’s are the sweetest,tastiest,and earliest[to produce fruit] of all the different type strawberries there are..[tastiest IMHO and in many taste polls as well] of course and why that’s the only type strawberry we grow..ever bearing plants aren’t really ever bearing anyway,and we’d much rather pick berries in one short period than to pick berries here and there throughout Spring and Summer..
    with Earliglkow’s,you can begin to pick berries the 3rd week of May till about[give or take a few days depending on temp] the 2nd week of June and then we stuff 2 freezers full,
    and have strawberries on oatmeal and/or or flaxseed flakes[NaturePath brand-100% organic] EVERY morning 365/24/7 as well as Heritage Red raspberries we sell,grow,pick,eat,and freeze,as well as Apache thornless blackberries,and Goji berries,a super berry/super food..they are $10 for a small bag at health store so i began growing them a couple years ago and got berries the 1st year[you shouldn’t expect berries till the 2nd year of plant we were told]

  32. I just moved to Utah and it appears that the previous owners planted strawberries. I have no idea what type they are. I was told by my neighbor that they do nothing to them to prepare for winter and they come back every year. It is just now getting warm out. I have noticed that the leaves are getting green however, their are still many that are brown. I can’t tell if they are still dormant or if they are dead leaves. Do you have any suggestions on what to do now before they bloom or should I just wait till it closer to the time they bloom? I have no idea where to begin to keep this garden of strawberries to bloom.

    • Jo Ann Skelton,
      I would definitely recommend gently raking out all the brown and dead leaves. Dead leaves are a happy home to fungi and other pathogens that can damage and even kill your strawberry plants. After that, just sit back and watch the plants produce their fruit! Be sure to read this page to know what to do and when. Good luck!

  33. I planted lots of Tristar strawberries last year in wine barrels & they returned great this year I live in the NW & I just finished laying hay on all of my beds but my strawberries still have not gone dormant it’s early November, but not all that cold out it’s still in the mid 50’s must I continue to wait until the plants go dormant so I can lay the hay on my plants? To prepare for next Spring

    • N.T.,
      You should wait until the plants are dormant to mulch them. They should go dormant once the nighttime temperatures drop into the mid-to-upper twenties for a few nights in a row. Once that happens, remove all the dead vegetative matter and mulch away! Good luck!

  34. Hi, I have read about straw on strawberry plants for winter and some people state to use straw and then you read further some say not to. I am confused. Who do I believe.?. I live in Maryland and some winters can get very cold and some not so cold.

    I know your site states to use. Please give me you thoughts.

    • Gardenman,
      If your temperatures drop into the mid-teens, you should mulch to mitigate against the threat of cold injury to the plants. If you temperatures stay in the 20s, you will likely come through the winter without any significant damage. Good luck!

  35. I am wondering if someone could offer some advice, is there a critical temperature for someone to remove your straw or even other covering for strawberries?

    With the warm temperatures so early this year (2017), we are seeing early growth on strawberries. So people are removing their straw and other coverings early which means we are more vulnerable to damaging frost. Thus if someone does an “emergency covering” for a freeze after they have removed their straw winter covering, is there a critical temperature to remove that “emergency” covering to ensure that you do not overheat and damage the strawberry plants?

    I appreciate any insight!



    • Diane Cooper,
      Once the strawberry plants have broken dormancy, they should be uncovered. If you have a hard freeze coming, cover the plants in the evening and then uncover again in the morning once the sun is up. Repeat as necessary. Good luck!

  36. Hello! I just uncovered my strawberry and they’re not many leaves on the rinners. Most have turned Brown and dry. Did I smother them? These are plants I planted in Fall 2015. Will they grow out of this since they have some leaves left? And will i lose fruit because of it? Thanks!

    • Jennifer A.,
      More than likely, your plants are simply still dormant. If they have some healthy-looking green leaves, then they will probably come back just fine. The flower buds are found in the crowns and will also likely be fine as long as your plants haven’t suffered cold injury. Good luck!

  37. I am going to experiment with milk crate towers this Summer. I am planting Honeoye in one tower for June bearing and eversweet for everbearing in another tower. To survive Winter (zone 4), once the plants are dormant, I am thinking of surrounding the towers with styrofoam (to protect against wind) about 4 inches away surrounding the tower and fill with straw for insulation within that would provide drainage. Do you think that would be enough to protect the plants?

    • Delia Rasmussen,
      That very well could do it, but Zone 4 gets pretty cold. If it does work, let us know! Good luck!

  38. Just curious, I’m in Manitoba, Canada…winter here is a nasty, nasty mistress. Would wrapping the plants in burlap and then covering in straw work? We get -40°C winters and sometimes colder. Is it even possible to keep them alive? Thanks!!

  39. I live in North Eastern Alberta where temps in the winter can be as low as -35C. Do I have to use straw or can I use a cedar mulch to cover the plants?

  40. Should I cut back the leaves before I mulch?
    Also, should I put in new plants after a few years? Mine seem to be getting spots on the leaves.
    Thanks, very helpful info.

    • Vern Baier,
      If you are mulching to provide weed control and ground cover, no. If you are mulching for the winter, you should wait until the plants go completely dormant. So, once the temperatures drop into the mid-twenties for several nights in a row, the plants will enter dormancy and look like they are dead. At that point, gently clear all the dead vegetative matter out of the bed, then mulch with a clean medium. Don’t mulch while the plants still look green and vibrant or they are actively putting out strawberries. Good luck!

  41. Hi Mr. Strawberry,

    I have perhaps 20 main strawberry plants in my garden. Lots of babies jumped off so I guess I’m creating a matted area of them. I have Alpine and some other French super shiny red varieties. I live in Amarillo where it might or might not snow, might or might not get down to 7 degrees for a day or two, or might never rain even once during the winter. One thing is guaranteed: it will be windy. So if I can find non-hay straw to mulch my strawberry people with and cover them as soon as it looks like it is going to go below freezing, I’m reading that this will keep them safe. Do you water up until mulching day? Also, since there is wind, the straw is not going to stay in place long – would you think it might be a good idea to get some landscaping cover and pin it down with rocks so the straw stays still?

    I set up a row of full spectrum bulbs in the garage to keep my other plants happy, but read about how the strawberries need to rest over winter. We also have a dumpload for our wind turbine that makes it above freezing in the garage. I was thinking about taking a few of the babies and planting them in pots with the other plants just in case I lose everything outside.

    Thanks for any advice. Off to find out what the heck to do with all my french grey shallots over the winter.

    • D. Herring,
      If your winter temperatures don’t get down below the mid-twenties (Fahrenheit), you probably don’t need to mulch at all. If they do, what you propose should work as long as you don’t compress the straw on top of the dormant plants. Air flow should not be restricted. Good luck!

  42. Great article, and I especially appreciated the answers to all of the questions.

    I’m located in northern VT directly on Lake Champlain, and although we’re considered zone 5A, we often have extremely inconsistent snow cover due to the common high winds off the Lake. This results in virtually no snow cover for much of the winter in certain areas (anything not protected by a wind break) which can cause even zone 4 perennials to not survive.

    I put in my first bed of strawberries last (early) summer. Unfortunately, they are a zone 5 plant (Gurney’s “whopper”). They are located in a low raised bed (just 4″ off the ground).

    I see that one of the questions was if styrofoam could be used the protect the plants. I was considering using polyisocyanurate rigid foam, but wasn’t sure if it would be acceptable. Your comment was that styrofoam should be fine to use, but the problem is keeping it in place. I have several ideas on how to keep it in place. My beds are only 4′ by 8′, so it would be possible to drive stakes into the ground on either size of a raised bed and then connect cross pieces that rest on the foam and connect to the stakes. Another idea is to place a tarp over the foam that more than covers the entire bed. The edges of the tarp can be held down by a variety of methods, but I would probably use 2×6 dimension lumber to cover the entire edge and weight it heavily (so wind can’t get underneath). I am also considering building a temporary solid fence around the bed so that snow won’t blow off.

    • Blackcrk,
      Your plants need to stay snug and warm, but they also have to have some moisture at the root level to keep from dying of dehydration/dessication. So, as long as you either water them occasionally throughout the winter or make sure that whatever you cover them with allows enough rain/moisture through to keep the roots happy, you should do just fine. Good luck!

  43. Is it OK to use Reemay instead of straw for overwintering strawberry plants in the ground (in coastal Connecticut, where Dec/Jan/Feb overnight lows are in the 20s most nights, I would estimate)? Or does it really need to be straw for over the winter, and then Reemay just for occasional late frosts in spring after the straw has been removed?

    • Melissa, Reemay can restrict air flow and promote the growth of pathogenic fungus if it is applied directly and compresses organic material underneath. If you can ensure that compression doesn’t occur, it is ok to use Reemay. But, I’m partial to the straw :). Good luck!

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