Strawberry Plant Disease Diagnosis

strawberry plant disease diagnosisFew things are more frustrating for a farmer or gardener than to toil for hours in heat and rain while nurturing his growing plants with tender loving care only to see some infernal sign that a microscopic invader has set up shop among the plants.  After working for hours preparing the earth, planting the plants, and weeding out the uninvited party crashers, it can provoke feelings of desperation, despair, and disillusionment to watch once-healthy plants wilt and die.

The wilting of future dreams and enjoyment as the plants become marred and disfigured with bacterial blemishes and fungal flaws is enough to make a budding gardener hang up the trowel and garden gloves for good.  Be ye irked no longer!  You don't have to wave the white flag of final surrender if the unseen organisms wage war upon your growing goodies.  In fact, you can identify and slay such scurrilous offenders with a little help from qualified specialists.

Strawberry Plant Disease Diagnosis: Help Is Here

Strawberry plant disease diagnosis is a headache for most people.  Few have advanced degrees in microbiology or are horticultural disease mitigation specialists.  So, to win at strawberry plant disease diagnosis, you might as well cheat by calling for advanced technological help in the form of the Sunburst Plant Disease Clinic.  They have the equipment, skills, and training to help identify the exact pathogen pestering your plants.

Designed by a scientist farmer as a full-service agricultural laboratory, their clinic utilizes the most modern, cutting-edge equipment and techniques to assist farmers and gardeners with individually-tailored plans to discover, and then destroy, infecting organisms.  The service doesn't just stop at identification, however.  They will also help determine the primary cause of the problem and proscribe a program for the farmer/gardener to follow to remedy or eliminate the problem altogether.

Techniques for Strawberry Plant Disease Diagnosis

Sunburst Plant Disease Clinic uses the following techniques for strawberry plant disease diagnosis: PCR & Sequencing; Nematode, Bacteria, and Fungal culturing on selective media; Soil, Tissue, and Water Mineral Analysis; Bioassay; Microbial Community Analysis; ELISA; and Reverse Transcriptase PCR.  This list is not extensive, however.  You may contact them for additional information.

All together, these techniques cover virtually every common and uncommon pathogenic organism that may show up infecting strawberry plants.  If you find a problem in your garden or strawberry patch, they can help identify it quickly.  You don't have to slog through the details of self-directed strawberry plant disease diagnosis.  You can outsource the work to Sunburst Plant Disease Clinic, if you so choose.  Good luck in your strawberry growing endeavors!

8 comments to Strawberry Plant Disease Diagnosis

  • Mr. Strawberry

    MSH,
    If they are fully ripe when they go mushy, try picking them a day or two earlier as soon as they are first fully red. It sounds like they may be getting over-ripe. Strawberries will get mushy when they are too ripe. Also, all strawberries aren’t the same when it comes to firmness. Many varieties will naturally get soft when they are ripe. With varieties such as those, you need to snip the stem when they are picked instead of pulling on the berry. Pulling on the berry will cause the fragile outer flesh of the strawberry to tear and make a mushy mess. Good luck!

  • MSH

    I have beautiful large strawberries, but as they ripen, they are going soft and mushy. Why is this happening? I have mulched around them…the berries lie on top of straw, and grow on a mound.

  • Mr. Strawberry

    Heather,
    Yes, totally normal! As the temperatures cool, the vegetation will continue to die back to the crown. Remove the leaves as they die so that fungal infections don’t set it, mulch when the plants are completely dormant (usually when nighttime temperatures have been in the mid-twenties for several nights in a row), and look forward to next spring’s harvest. Good luck!

  • Heather

    Hello! I planted Cavendish strawberries early this spring, and, on my grandmother’s advice, I didn’t cut the cut the flower stalks for the first fruiting season. I got some strawberries this year and my strawberries have been healthy and setting out many runners all season. I am in zone 4b and it is November now, we have had a few light frosts. Quite a few of my strawberry leaves are turning red/yellow. Is this normal?

  • Mr. Strawberry

    Irene Phillips,
    Slugs and snails are the most common pests that leave holes in them. Birds and beetles can also damage them. You might want to try copper strips for the slugs/snails, and/or liberally sprinkle diatomaceous earth on/around the plants and berries. Good luck!

  • Mr. Strawberry

    Dean,
    Congrats on the first big crop! And, yes, high heat will be detrimental to strawberry production. The everbearing varieties (like Ozark Beauty) will typically produce another significant crop (albeit not quite as large as the initial spring crop) in the fall (late August or September), weather permitting. June-bearing varieties like Elon will only produce one large crop in the spring and won’t produce again until next year. Good luck!

  • Irene Phillips

    I have a beautiful strawberry patch but I’m noticing some of my gorgeous large ripe red fruit has holes in them. Obviously something is eating the fruit. My local nursery told me it’s probably snails or slugs, which I have not found any. But I went ahead and bought her suggestion for getting rid of them. Could it be something else?

  • Dean

    Hi Strawberry Plants.Org — I planted 3-4 varieties of strawberries (Elan, Sequoia, Ozark Beauty, and Loran) in my raised bed (irrigated with drip t-tape) last summer. Then, I dutifully cut off all flowers/budding strawberries through this June and was rewarded with a profusion of large strawberries for about 4 weeks. By July and since then all of the plants stopped producing, and the strawberries have been very small and dark. The leaves remain healthy although they are noticiably not as shiny as before. I fertilize using liquid Kelp, but haven’t done so since early July.

    Living in the San Fernando Valley in Los Angeles, we get wholloped with high temps in the summer. This year we had temps in the high 90s to low 100s for most of July. Could that be the cause? How long will it take to start producing or have we lost the season? I began cutting back the runners and the budding strawberries. Should I continue that through next summer?

Leave a Reply

 

 

 

You can use these HTML tags

<a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <s> <strike> <strong>

What is 13 + 4 ?
Please leave these two fields as-is:
IMPORTANT! To be able to proceed, you need to solve the following simple math (so we know that you are a human) :-)